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Battle scar




Some more pictures...

Here is a list of stuff it has so far:
AEM FIC (not installed)
Bikirom tuneable ecu (not installed)
duestchwerks(sp) 650cc injectors (not installed)
z32 maf (not installed)
spare nissan quest altenator

Interior
python 990 keyless, remotestart alarm
pioneer 6800dvd which is a 6 disk dvd player built into the double-din
polk 4ch amp with polk speakers all around.
colbalt boost,oil press, water temp gauges mounted on the a pillar.
Apexi Safc2 and AVC-r mounted on the dash
Btw abattery relocated to the trunk
Plx m300 wideband o2

Arias pistons
eagle rods
New oil pump and front timing cover
refreshed head with oem parts
Garrett GT35r dual bb turbo E style 3" cover with a .82 ar hot side t3 footprint
a custom built tubular equal length manifold with a t3 foot print
JGS 40mm wastegate
2.5" deep intercooler not sure of the exact spec but the thing is huge looks like it belongs on a supra
300zx brakes in the front with drilled and slotted rotors
carbon fiber hood
Kouki front end conversion
Spec stage 4 clutch
8k hids
300zxtt stock rims 16x7.5f 16x8.5r
Tein coilovers
Tanabe smr exhaust 3"
test pipe 3"

Future things to buy/make:
1000cc injectors
fuel rail
bigger fuel pump
fuel pressure regulator
new exhaust (this one is too loud)
dump tube for wastegate
deck the head (or buy new motor)
new hoses
possibly a stand alone

Things to fix now:
Clean it
Fix/New fenders
New bumper (stock bumper)
clean up the wiring
Install and tune some engine management unit (gave up on bikirom, going to try AEM FIC)
Stop the crazy oil leak (redeck head and maybe block)
Get it registered, insured, and inspected..

Congrats on the car!

A wallet stayed empty for a bit on this one. Like the project though Get ready to spend your money

Ok, so yesterday I ordered a new O2 sensor for the wideband and a dump tube for the wastegate.. I'm going to try to modify the dump tube to exit into the downpipe so it's so not loud.. I also got the car to start with the 95 ECU with the bikirom bypassed.. It's having problems revving so I think something may be wrong with the ECU itself.. I'm currently trying to find a new one...

So yesterday, I ordered 2ft of 3inch aluminum tubing to make the intake tube for the MAF and turbo.. Bikirom just uploaded a new manual firmware update for the ECU so I'm going to try that before getting the new ECU.. If it still doesn't work then I'm going to look into standalones while I get the head decked..

The bikirom works! Just need to wait for the O2 sensor to arrive and to tune it..

Bloody Brilliant!!

Ok so here is a kinda small update:

Welded up new intake pipe for the z32 maf, still need to make the intake filter adapter..

Bought a dump pipe that's too small for the wastegate.. just received another one today that should fit..

Did a compression test.. no good news: 120,130,120,115 (engine was cold for the last 2..)...

The ignition wiring for the 3rd spark plug got messed up while pulling it off for the compression test.. the crimp came off of the wire and now looses it's connection after a bit (I don't have a proper crimping tool)
Ordered some NGK ignition wires.. should be in tomorrow or so..

Did a "block test" from that dumb kit at autozone.. No exhaust leaks in the coolant according to the test.. I really wanted to do a leakdown test but they don't rent them at autozone..

Did an obdii test.. The check engine light was disabled/blew.. I have error codes for the o2 sensor, crank position sensor, egr valve, and knock sensor... o2 sensor may just be a code for the rear one since it's not there anymore and isn't bypassed... EGR tube is blocked off and not connected to the exhaust.. Is there a way to trick the ecu to think EGR is working fine?
I'm ordering a new front o2 sensor anyways since the previous owner cut the wire for the one that's on it now. I'm also ordering a new knock sensor even though it may just be a bad ground(???).. I'm still trying to figure out how I am going to go about the crank position sensor and what exactly is wrong with it... It's probably a terrible idea to drive it around in this state but I really don't care...

Bought a new o2 sensor for the wideband.. It reads lean... VERY lean: 14-16 under load, LEAN (>20) at idle, etc.. I think the engine would have blown by now if it was.. i think(and hope) the sensor is messed up/wrong since it's not the exact same one as required.. PLX says no calibration is needed and their forum is screwed up so I can't ask there... I think I'll give them a call..

Other things I need to fix:
Front turn signals are not connected at all (Maybe I'll go with some LEDs )
The horn is hooked up to the alarm horn...
Hook the wideband up to the ignition switch so I don't have to worry about waiting for it too cool down before starting the engine...
Hook the fan up to a fan controller....
A lot of cosmetic and body work (this will come well after the car is running right)...
Get it tuned (after the rebuild/refresh)
I'm sure there are a bit of things I'm forgetting..

I think this week I'm going to park it in the garage and start rebuilding it.. I'm going to get arp head and main studs, clevite main and rod bearings, and get the head fixed.. The engine bay will be cleaned up as well.. I also need to fix the diff since it has a s13 vsld diff installed that doesn't exactly fit.. If I get some extra money I'll try getting some nice 272 cams and get some headwork done ... maybe even get the head and block drilled and tapped for 11mm head studs... more wishful thinking though..

So yeah.. That's it I think..

make sure the main caps are line honed before using the ARP main studs

So I ordered a few parts after waiting sooooo long to get paid...

ARP Head studs
ARP Main studs
Clevite Main and Rod bearings
NGK plugs
Knock sensor


I have started taking the engine apart. I found tons of things wrong... Only 2 of the 5 bolts required for the turbo downpipe flange were in which led to exhaust escaping through the optional internal waste gate port (it's that ford 5-bolt style hotside). The exhaust mani was missing about 4-5 bolts. The tranny seems to be missing a few bolts on the bell housing.. The ground for the knock sensor harness was not grounded which is probably what was giving me the code.. Intake air temp plug wasn't connected (IAT sensor is nowhere to be found) and a few other stuff I don't remember right now..

So since it has the s13 vlsd diff in the rear end, I need to make some bushings so it doesn't clunk every time I shift.. I'm going to measure it up then make some on a lathe out of aluminum when I get a chance.. I also need to buy an engine hoist. I think I'll also try to fab up some engine hoist mounting point things from some steel.. I still need to make the intake adapter for the z32 MAF and shorten the intake pipe a tad.. While the head is out getting surfaced, I'll try to get the valve cover powder coated flat wrinkle black if the price is right. I'll also try to get the exhaust manifold and turbo ceramic coated but if the price is too much, I'll just wrap it.. I also need to make some heat shields for the brake master cylinder and headers.. Just remembered, I need a z32 brake master cylinder..

Hopefully the car will be back on the road again in the next couple weeks..

Sorry if this doesn't make much sense/flow well.. I'm using it to keep track and remember things for myself.