yeah.. an example of that would be the jun 264 cams having a more aggressive lope and lift that than the hks 280's... so the jun 264's idle worse than the 280's while the 280's might make more power in the upper range... but i do think the jun 264's might beat the hks 280's all around because of the higherlift and aggresive lope but need stiffer springs so valve float doesn't occur... valve float might occur with the jun 264's because they open and close much faster (as in opens fully quicker and closes fully quicker) than the hks cams... i just woke up again so i dont really know if this make much sense.. heres a list of cam specs..
by the way after reading through this i realised i was wrong on some stuff earlier.. all comp cams need upgraded valve springs and the tomei 260's don't...
damien wrote:
I just know good tuning and the right brand choice is real important to get the most out of cam upgrades. Do LOTS of research
Not exactly brand choice...but cam specs...getting the right duration and lift for your needs makes the difference...not exactly brand
you know what i mean man. Silent_Night's explanation says it all...each company has a different design for their lobe profiles, manufacturing process, etc., even for the same given HP increase for any one car. I not saying 2 brands cannot have identical cam designs, but when you buy a cam with just the right specs and performance for you specific car, chances are only one brand will do it.
Yo, whatever cams you get put some upgrades valve springs. Yes yes yes, some of you guys will say some cams don't require that, but if you in there already just get it done one time.
With all those upgrades in power what about your clutch and flywheel?
Starboy_X wrote:
You already only racing yourself...at least let somebody be close to you first nuh . I mean do your research still so when someone does come close to you, you know what you about to blow them out next time, maybe, just my $0.02.
Motion Sickness wrote:
Yo, whatever cams you get put some upgrades valve springs. Yes yes yes, some of you guys will say some cams don't require that, but if you in there already just get it done one time. With all those upgrades in power what about your clutch and flywheel?
Silent_NightR34 wrote:
depends on what cams you get.. usually 280 have a rough idle and 264's are near stock.. 272's can be tuned to have a near stock idle though... well any almost any cams can be tuned to idle near stock if your good enough and it also depends on the lift.... but anyways for 400whp i would get some HKS 272's or GSC 280's since i'm pretty sure they don't require any headwork.. You can also try a tried a proven 264 intake and 272 exhaust setup but i heard 280/272 make good power on the stock setup too.. not sure if the 264/272 setup will get you to 400 with the mods you have now but the idle will be good.. I also think Crower's son's company(i forgot the name... something crower..) makes some cams that don't need headwork done.. if you would do some headwork i would get some jun or cosworth 264's or 272's but getting a good idle might be hard.. you can also try finding revolver cams but they are pretty rare right now..
My tuner in the US has stated ishould go with this "Yes, cams are the way to go.
I have a 2000mi old set of HKS 280 280 that would work wonderfully on your car $485+ shipping"
2000mi's is kinda alot and not much at the same time.. i honestly don't know.. if you don't trust these people i guess you could get the cams from your tuner..
Yea the transmission is a crucial upgrade...especially the clutch. The Evo's not designed for hard take-offs in all aspects so get a performance clutch so you can replace is as soon as you burn your stock one