Onlydominican.com

do another diagnostic test, even the check engine light isn't on the history should be stored in there. If it blings continuously with no change no codes. it could be the knock sensor, false readings could send it into limp mode for instance this one car had a serious rode knock and wouldn't rev past 2500rpm if the knock sensor is connected. just too much knock detected. so a faulty sensor could cause that. You said u got knock code so test that sensor... see manual for procedure

next mapsensor test that as well

make sure u have no vaccuum leaks

now with regards to the transmission, hmmmmm how does the ecu receive a speedo signal? remember this engine is based on an automatic transmission which relies on not one but two speed sensors to properly run the transmission,and also helps with fuel and ignition maps, check that

yes check see if u can borrow some coils

also check the spark plugs u have in the car. resistor type plugs and non resistor type plugs, if its the original plugs then u're fine. that rules that out.. i remember we changed plugs on the red spec and got similar symptoms

do a compression test. don't mean to bust ur bubble but if all else fails do a compression test, should indicate low cylinder pressure, bent valves, etc .. shit happens.

Tried.. another set of coil packs.. didn't make a difference.. well slight different.. felt the engine breaking up slightly earlier.. but still made it to 5000 rpms.. (notice it keeps getting higher).. without backfiring.. but weird breaking up sounds.

With my coils.. its solid all the way though and starts breaking up at about 4500 rpms..to 5000 rpms.. It all depends on the throttle position. For instance.. WOT u feel it breaking up earlier in the rpm range.. like above 3000.. and it struggles more to get it to go to 5000... with a gradual increase.. it reaches 5000 smoothly.

There is a breaking point where..your have reached the maximum throttle position and opening the throttle any more at that point will lead to breaking up. It kinda lead me to the conclusion.. that.. hmm to much air causing it to break up..? I dk.

Note: It does the same thing naturally aspirated.. which.. makes me think.. maybe it isn't to much air. Either way..I am not worrying bout it tomuch.. right now!.. I putting her out this month.

SF5 wrote:do another diagnostic test, even the check engine light isn't on the history should be stored in there. If it blings continuously with no change no codes. it could be the knock sensor, false readings could send it into limp mode for instance this one car had a serious rode knock and wouldn't rev past 2500rpm if the knock sensor is connected. just too much knock detected. so a faulty sensor could cause that. You said u got knock code so test that sensor... see manual for procedure

next mapsensor test that as well

make sure u have no vaccuum leaks

now with regards to the transmission, hmmmmm how does the ecu receive a speedo signal? remember this engine is based on an automatic transmission which relies on not one but two speed sensors to properly run the transmission,and also helps with fuel and ignition maps, check that

yes check see if u can borrow some coils

also check the spark plugs u have in the car. resistor type plugs and non resistor type plugs, if its the original plugs then u're fine. that rules that out.. i remember we changed plugs on the red spec and got similar symptoms

do a compression test. don't mean to bust ur bubble but if all else fails do a compression test, should indicate low cylinder pressure, bent valves, etc .. shit happens.

Ok here is what I have tested so far:

Checked the engine light signal and it gave the same exact code.. no crank or cam sensor signal.. swapped out the crank sensor with a next one.. same issue.. checked the ohm reading on the cam angle sensors and they are in smack dad.. within speck somewhere in the middle region of the range.

Thinking it could be the knock sensors.. tried disconnecting them.. in the hope maybe it wouldn't send a signal of knocking.. but same rev issue.

I believe I tried none resister type spark plugs.. I will get the details of the plugs.. but also tried stock and different plugs.. same issue.

Did a compression test.. 170 - 175 PSI in each cylinder.. a lot of compression inst it?

The speed sensor.. hmm I am wondering if those little electrical coil thingies .. that open and allow the actuators to move and stuff to turn on the second turbo isnt related to that some how.. but then I thought that would be more related to rev... anyways.. I exhausted myself of this.. I closing her up.. for now. Will trouble shoot later down in the year.

I think my next purchase gonna be a wideband.. just to cancel out fuel/lean/to rich. I dk..

Oh.. Its also not bcuz the second turbo not opening.. bcuz opened it manually.. and.. same issue.

Really.. got me this one. Can't wait to figure it out..Dell all the help you can give ..Forum guys.. All the help you can give.. God..your the man and all the help you can give.

The map sensor.. hmm. With Berky and Sci.. we fiddled with it a bit. Connected it direct to the manifold because it had a T on it for the FPR and some other stuff. ahhh.. thats bout it for the map sensor. The car wont start without it connected.. that means it doing something.. same with the cam angle sensor and crank.... men.. I dont know.

the crank and cam sensor is a Pulse...not resistance. You need a oscillerscope.

Have you checked the TPS?

you getting a code saying no cam or crank signal? ? is that what u said? If you have intermittent signal or loss of signal at any point with cam or crank u're gonna have these issues, you may have a short, or the shielded wire carrying the cam crank signal has been compromised. Had that happen on the fozzy, had to purchase some shielded wire and run them from the crank sensor and cam sensor directly to the ecu, the wire i used is 400 degree rated and dual shielded. I rev to 8000rpm without any break up in the rpm.

That could well be your problem, check that thing. thats your issue.

scientist wrote:the crank and cam sensor is a Pulse...not resistance. You need a oscillerscope.

Have you checked the TPS?

The manual that telling me bout ohms...but where do I get a oscillerscope ?.. TPS.. I swapped out the TPS once with another one.. But I cant remember reeving it to see. The worst part is.. My father misplaced the spare TPS.. lol ..

SF5 wrote:you getting a code saying no cam or crank signal? ? is that what u said? If you have intermittent signal or loss of signal at any point with cam or crank u're gonna have these issues, you may have a short, or the shielded wire carrying the cam crank signal has been compromised. Had that happen on the fozzy, had to purchase some shielded wire and run them from the crank sensor and cam sensor directly to the ecu, the wire i used is 400 degree rated and dual shielded. I rev to 8000rpm without any break up in the rpm.

That could well be your problem, check that thing. thats your issue.

Food for thought.. but.. lol I not going back in that now.. Hell no.. But I will keep it on mind for when I start troubleshooting again.

Thanks for the info fellaz.

its the signal from cam and crank... its timing issue or te cam and crank sensor signal or ground isnt good.

see page 247 of wiring diagram in 95tsrm. The shielded wire for the cam and crank sensor has a joint where they meet with the shield for the o2 sensor,knock sensor etc, that joint is then grounded on the engine. please make sure that ground exists. no rev past ur 3000rpm too much interferance

Interestingly reviewing the diagram.. it says it grounds on the rear side of the intake manifold. I can't recall seeing a ground there.. Only ground I can recall there is on the cylinder head of the engine.. I will have a second look as soon as i get back in the garage.

Although.. I must say.. lol I not to excited or have high expectations of this being the problem.

hmmm, you underestimate the importance of shielding. it reduces noise and interferance in signals. the cam and crank are reluctors similar to tiny electro magnets, the crankk sprocket has a wheel i think its 36-1 or 12 to 1 memory not too sharp. now the 36 represents the number of teeth, every time the wheel spins a variation in the magnetic field is formed, creating a wavelike signal whick can be seen with an oscilloscope... this tells the ecu when to fire coil and injectors. this knowledge wasnt grasped from a website, thats from making ems and messing with standalones ecu. so if your shields arent right jump high or low you wont ever run right. and more possibly than not your issue is ca,/crank signal related.. case close.