Re: Project 4G63T PG1 Updated
Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 3:01 pm
Well yesterday was a rather productive day, We set out to do a few things including working on project Solar Eclipse.
We attempted to get it started unsuccessfully and started doing a bit of troubleshooting. We narrowed it down to the injectors not pulsing as we were getting spark but no fuel. We tried removing the fuel rail to see if the fuel pump was providing fuel, which it was. We pulled the fuel rail with the injectors installed and started cranking again, but the injectors were not pulsing. This makes it a bit easier in the diagnostic as its now narrowed down to:
1. Faulty Cam angle sensor: Without the signal, the ecu would not know when to fire (And the car did suffer a small fire under the engine compartment, causing the cam sensor plug to slightly melt.)
2. Blocked injectors: Prevented project RVR from starting last week
3. Blown ecu : the capacitors have a tendency to expand and burst, preventing the injector drivers on the board to cease to function. (thats if it isn't to bad and leaked all over the PCB causing severe damage).
Now since we arrived at the garage late, we didn't have much daylight left, so we decided to resume this car next weekend.
On to the VR4:
Well our goal today was to finish up the rear end of the car. This involved, refilling the rear differential with fluid and lifting up the subframe to be bolted in place. I left out refilling the rear differential for the purpose of demonstrating how to change your differential fluid while still ON the car. So stay tuned for onlydoms first tech article next week as we show how to change differential fluid.
With the use of a hydraulic jack (These things are too heavy to lift by hand) we began aligning the subframe with the body. Having an extra pair of hands would be very helpful as they can catch bolts while u keep things aligned. We opted to catch the lower mounting point of the shocks first, as this gives us a bit of flexibility to maneuver afterward. Once those were bolted up, its time to catch the rear bolts to the mustache brace (The V shaped bar under the car the rear diff bolts to (On some cars, this has a rubber bushing, if yours is warn, now would be a good time to replace it, as it Eliminates that hard THUNK you hear during shifts). Once it was torqued to factory spec, we then set our sites to the front. We may have left out a few steps as we had already bolted the differential to the subframe before hand to save dealing with aligning the heavy differential. The front contains two subframe bushings, which are a good idea to replace or stiffen with polyurethane bushes. Now you slide the frame through the studs (This may require a little force) then hold it in place. Swing the small braces over and then tighten the bolt and washer. Tighten to factory spec. THats pretty much how it was done.
We attempted to get it started unsuccessfully and started doing a bit of troubleshooting. We narrowed it down to the injectors not pulsing as we were getting spark but no fuel. We tried removing the fuel rail to see if the fuel pump was providing fuel, which it was. We pulled the fuel rail with the injectors installed and started cranking again, but the injectors were not pulsing. This makes it a bit easier in the diagnostic as its now narrowed down to:
1. Faulty Cam angle sensor: Without the signal, the ecu would not know when to fire (And the car did suffer a small fire under the engine compartment, causing the cam sensor plug to slightly melt.)
2. Blocked injectors: Prevented project RVR from starting last week
3. Blown ecu : the capacitors have a tendency to expand and burst, preventing the injector drivers on the board to cease to function. (thats if it isn't to bad and leaked all over the PCB causing severe damage).
Now since we arrived at the garage late, we didn't have much daylight left, so we decided to resume this car next weekend.
On to the VR4:
Well our goal today was to finish up the rear end of the car. This involved, refilling the rear differential with fluid and lifting up the subframe to be bolted in place. I left out refilling the rear differential for the purpose of demonstrating how to change your differential fluid while still ON the car. So stay tuned for onlydoms first tech article next week as we show how to change differential fluid.
With the use of a hydraulic jack (These things are too heavy to lift by hand) we began aligning the subframe with the body. Having an extra pair of hands would be very helpful as they can catch bolts while u keep things aligned. We opted to catch the lower mounting point of the shocks first, as this gives us a bit of flexibility to maneuver afterward. Once those were bolted up, its time to catch the rear bolts to the mustache brace (The V shaped bar under the car the rear diff bolts to (On some cars, this has a rubber bushing, if yours is warn, now would be a good time to replace it, as it Eliminates that hard THUNK you hear during shifts). Once it was torqued to factory spec, we then set our sites to the front. We may have left out a few steps as we had already bolted the differential to the subframe before hand to save dealing with aligning the heavy differential. The front contains two subframe bushings, which are a good idea to replace or stiffen with polyurethane bushes. Now you slide the frame through the studs (This may require a little force) then hold it in place. Swing the small braces over and then tighten the bolt and washer. Tighten to factory spec. THats pretty much how it was done.
... lol pics.. pics pics.. I can't read. 
.. but good stuff.. Delilia should have company on the road.. 2 .... hmmm from nothing to something projects of d/ca...![[notworthy]](./images/smilies/notworthy.gif "i am not worthy"){kind=small}
![[oh]](./images/smilies/blink.gif "ohhh"){kind=small}
![[unsure]](./images/smilies/unsure.gif "unsure"){kind=small}
